Vinograf a Jakub Novák

Vinograf a Jakub Novák

Vinograf! Konečne som ťa navštívila. Tento legendárny wine bar v Prahe a dnes už sieť (majú tri po celej Prahe) som túžila omrknúť už dlhšie ale nikdy sa mi to počas občasnej návštevy v Prahe nepodarilo. Až teraz. 

Očakávania som v zásade nemala, bola som len úprimne zvedavá. A verdikt? V Ý B O R N É. Okrem toho, že tam aj plnohodnotne varia a nie len take drobotiny k vínu - jedlo ktoré sme mali bolo jednoduché ale veľmi chutné - výber vín je impoznantný to say the least, personál veľmi milý, veľmi profi a super poradil (zdravíme Tondu!) a ceny super friendly. A tá stena! Láska na prvý pohľad. 

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Vinograf! Finally we meet. I've been meaning to visit this legendary wine bar in Prague and today chain (they already have three places opened all around the city) for a very long time but never managed to squeeze it into my occasional brief visits to Prague. This has thankfully changed. 

I didn't really have any expectations and knew better than to over hype it to myself before going, but I was very curious. And the verdict? A M A Z I N G. Not only do they have an actual kitchen meaning they don't only serve small cheese plate pate-ish things with wine which I think is a big plus (and the food was really tasty), their wine selection is impressive in scope and choice to say the least, the staff very nice and super professional (hey to our somm of the night Tonda!) and their prices very consumer friendly. And that wall! Love at first sight. 

 Indulding wine and or happily tipsy faces

Vína sme počas večera mali štyri ale pre mňa jednoznačný víťaz večera a objav tohto ešte veľmi krátkeho roka bol vinár Jakub Novák ktorého odporučil nie len Tonda ale aj moja skvelá kamoška Zuzka, tiež vášnivá vinárka. V Prahe sú jeho vína relatívne známe ale kedže ja mám stále v lokálnych vínach resty som sa k nemu dostala až teraz. Jeho vína tak ako aj on pochádzajú z oblasti Znojma a musím povedať, že ma tento región čoraz viac pozitívne prekvapuje (viď napríklad Vinařství Kořínek, jedno z mojich najobľúbenejších z minulého roka). Plus - aj Zuzka a Tondo odtiaľ pochádzajú. Náhoda? Nemyslím si. 

Všetky jeho vína su v podstate 'autentické' aj keď som nenašla, že by sa pán Novák k autentistom v Čechách oficiálne hlásil, čo je ale vlastne úplne jedno lebo nejake zaradenie jednoznačne neuberá na kvalite jeho produktov. Autentické víno v skratke znamená, že sa používa minimum technologických zásahov počas výroby, minimum pridaných látok, minimum chémie vo vinohrade atď. Ide proste o veľmi prírodo milné vína. A to čo som mala možnosť ochutnať bolo ako príroda a láska samá! 

Mali sme dve vzorky - Pinot Blanc 2013 a tzv PbCH 2013 - cuveé Pinot Blancu a Chardonnay, 50/50. Ja ako nie veľký fanúšik Chardonnay (proste to nie je moja odroda) som bola veľmi milo prekvapená - kombinácia týchto dvoch odrôd sadla ako riť na šerbel. Víno malo krásnu kyselinu a nebolo vôbec ťažké, niečo čo mi väčšinou na Chardonnay vadí. No a dámy a páni, ten PINOT BLANC. Hoooooly shit. Keď som zvdihla pohár a do nosa mi udrela tá vôňa, myslela som si, že odpadnem. Bolo to ako prechádzka cez rokvitnuté fialkové pole počas prvých jarných mesiacov, slnko v tvári a úsmev na perách. Ujo Google mi povedal, že víno dozrievalo 12 mesiacov v agátových sudoch na kvasniciach čo je jednoznačne cítiť - víno je veľmi osviežujúce až slink tečú čo je neuveriteľné vzhľadom na to, že má vínko už pomaly tri roky. Pôsobí veľmi mlado ale zároveň vyvážené, kyselina nie je príliš. Proste vybalansovaná symfónia. 

Ďakujem pánovi Novákovi za jeho krásne vína. Bohužial/chvaľabohu má pán Novák produkciu relatívne malú - nemá ani web - takže vína sú ťažko dostupné ale idem na to. Plus, pozrite tú nádhernú jednoduchú etiketu! Komplexný estetický zážitok. 

 Label beautifully matching with my fave winter sweater

Label beautifully matching with my fave winter sweater

We tried four wines in the course of the evening but my undisputed winner and newcomer of the still very short new year was winemaker Jakub Novák. The recommendation came from not only Tondo but my dear friend Zuzka who is also an avid wine lover. His wines are already quite well known around Prague but due to my slightly embarrassing lack of knowledge about local wines I was unaware of this gem till now. His wines, just like him, come form the region of Znojmo. I must say this region keeps impressing me, one of my favorite from last year Vinarstvi Korinek based there as well. Plus - Tondo and Zuzka are both from there. Coincidence? I don't think so. 

All his wines are natural although he doesn't officially belong to the group of natural winemakers in the Czech Republic. But that's not really important as it has no effect on the quality of his produce. Side note - for those who don't know, natural wines are basically wines that are produced with the least intervention from technology in the winemaking process as possible, with the least possible amount of additives in the wine etc. Basically the definition of it's name. And what I had the opportunity to taste was nature and love reincarnated in my glass! 

We had two samples - a Pinot Blacn 2013 and the so called PbCH 2013 - a 50/50 Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay blend. I'm not a huge fan of Chardonnay usually (it's just not my thing) but I was very positively surprised - the combination of these two grape varieties was seamless. The acidity was beautiful and the wine wasn't all that heavy, something that I usually mind in most pure Chardonnays. The Pinot in this respect really helped in balancing this wine. But ladies and gentlemen, THAT PINOT BLANC. When I raised my glass and the aromas hit my nose, I almost passed out. It was like taking a walk through a blooming field of violets with the sun in your face and a smile on your lips. I managed to google that the wine matured for 12 months in black locust wooden barrels and you can really tell - the wine has great structure and depth. However, despite being almost 3 years old, it is so fresh it makes your mouth water but the acidity isn't too overpowering. Just a harmonious symphony. 

Thank you Mr. Novak for your beautiful wines. Unfortunately/fortunately Mr. Novak has a relatively small production - he doesn't even have a website - so it's hard to get to his wines but I'll do everything it takes to score a bottle for my cellar! Plus, check out that gorgeous simple label. Just an all in one aesthetic experience. 

For the love of Cognac and Tesseron

For the love of Cognac and Tesseron

Chateau Haut Bailly at Chateau Herálec

Chateau Haut Bailly at Chateau Herálec